Freezing, drying and canning are options for long-term storage of freshly harvested vegetables, but what are the best ways to store produce for a few days or weeks? The Ecology Center at Berkeley Farmers’ Markets in California offers these environmentally responsible (no plastic wraps or disposable containers) suggestions.
Beans, shelling Open container in fridge.
Beets Remove tops (store separately in fridge; tops left on root vegetables draw moisture from the root); open container with wet towel on top.
Broccoli Wrap in damp towel; open container in fridge.
Brussels sprouts Store in fridge if still on stalk; place loose sprouts in open container in fridge with damp towel on top.
Cabbage On counter for up to a week; otherwise, place in crisper.
Carrots Cut off tops. Wrap in damp towel; closed container in fridge.
Celery In shallow bowl of water on counter.
Cucumber On counter for day or two; wrap in damp towel in fridge for longer storage.
Eggplant Dislikes moisture around leaves so don’t wash; store in crisper.
Fennel On counter or upright in bowl of water for a few days. For longer storage, closed container with a little water in fridge.
Green beans Damp cloth over open container in fridge.
Radishes Remove tops (store separately); open container in fridge with damp towel overtop.
Snap peas Open container in fridge.
Summer squash On counter, even after cut.
Sweet peppers Wash just before eating; moisture decreases storage life. Keep in cool room for a few days, in crisper for longer periods.
Tomatoes Up to two weeks on counter (never refrigerate).
Turnips Remove greens (store separately); open container with moist cloth overtop.
Zucchini On counter for a few days, even after cut.
Growing a variety of edibles is one of the many joys of gardening. (Photo by Joanne Young)
Everything you need to know about starting a new vegetable garden
Who doesn’t enjoy just-picked, homegrown vegetables? Growing a variety of edibles is one of the many joys of gardening, and a good way to make sure your family is getting plenty of fresh produce on their plates.
If you’re new to gardening or new to veggie growing, this Garden Know How will help you plan and plant your own 150-square-foot (14-sq.-m) vegetable garden. – Beckie
If this is the year you’ve decided to become a true locavore and grow some food in your own backyard, good for you.
Whether you’re new to gardening or already have green thumbs, here’s a quick guide to take you from planning to planting, and get you started on an excellent veggie adventure.
Don’t bite off more than you can chew, but don’t be afraid to try anything either. Experience is the best teacher, and the rewards can be delicious.
Choosing a site
Most vegetables require full sun to produce enough to make growing them worthwhile. Full sun means unobstructed exposure for at least six hours when sunlight is most intense — mid-morning through late afternoon. Heat-loving peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, beans and squash will not be happy in shady spots.
Even those varieties that are more shade-tolerant, such as salad greens and broccoli rabe, still need three to four hours of sun.
Also, situate your vegetables close to a water source and the house. You’ll be more likely to use what you grow if it’s convenient to get at.
Your space and edible desires will determine the size of your plot, but about 150 square feet (14 sq. m) is a good start, especially if you’re new to vegetable growing. It can be a single 10-by-15-foot (3-by-4.5-m) plot or three four-by-12-foot (1.2-by-3.5-m) beds (or equivalents thereof). Four feet (1.2 m) is about the maximum width you can work comfortably without falling into the bed. A single large plot will require some sort of path for ease of access. If you use stepping stones or bricks, keep in mind pests such as slugs might hide under the stones.
TIP
Try to orient beds north-south to get the best sun exposure.
Preparing the soil
Most plants need loose, friable soil at least eight inches (18 cm) deep, so you may need to dig the soil deeply, but just once. If the soil is poor, dig in organic material such as compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mould or seaweed. After that, simply top-dress with four to five inches (10 to 12 cm) of organic material in the fall and following spring (and every year thereafter), and leave it be. Billions of organisms are busy in the soil, creating tunnels that oxygenate plants, then releasing nitrogen when their lives are done. Don’t disturb them.
Think of your soil as a bank account, which you want to keep full. Plants make withdrawals (nutrients), and when you harvest them, you must follow up with a deposit (top-dressing) of organic matter. Mulching exposed soil between plants during the growing season with organic materials holds in moisture and discourages weeds; mulch also adds nutrients as it breaks down.
Vegetables also like well-drained soil, because their roots need to breathe oxygen. If water puddles on the ground and it takes ages to soak in, find another site or consider installing raised beds — large, bottomless boxes made of wood, stone or brick. The material you choose to make your beds with depends on your budget, DIY skills and how long you want them to last. In addition to providing good drainage, growing in raised beds means you can control the quality of the soil; the soil warms faster so you can plant earlier; and — a big plus — tending and harvesting is less back-breaking. Raised beds may be worth considering even if you have excellent drainage.
Planting and staking
Many vegetables can be purchased as seedlings at a garden centre, ideal if you don’t want to start your own seeds. Some, however, such as beans, peas, carrots and beets, are best grown from seed, sown directly in the garden. Growing from seed is half art, half science. Give it a try — just follow the directions on the seed package.
The likes of pole beans, peas and indeterminate tomatoes, meanwhile, need support as they mature. Push sturdy stakes of bamboo, wood, rebar or plastic-clad metal into the soil at least 10 inches (25 cm) deep to anchor them; use soft ties such Velcro tape or strips of old pantyhose to attach the stems to the stakes as the plants grow.
Feeding and watering
Compared with shrubs and perennials, vegetables grow at supersonic speed, so their need for food and water must be met regularly.
Synthetic chemical fertilizers (much like steroids) bulk up veggies. Consider using sea-based products, such as those made from kelp or fish. Glacial rock dust adds trace minerals to alluvial/loamy soil and feeds the “good” microbes. Rock phosphate supplies phosphorus; cottonseed and flax meal add nitrogen. If you regularly add organic matter to your garden, you’ll need little, if any, additional fertilizer, however.
Soaker hoses are good, but watering by hand with a can or hose better allows you to get up-close-and-personal with your veggies, and ensures each gets what it needs. Water deeply; don’t just sprinkle the surface. The best time is in the morning before 10; the second best time is late afternoon. Watering at night is a no-no because cool temperatures combined with moisture creates the perfect conditions for disease. Avoid using overhead sprinkler systems because plants not only take a beating, but some get overwatered and others under-watered. Drip irrigation is okay, although it can be expensive and fiddly.
7 easy-to-grow vegetables
These seven vegetables are reliable, productive and easy to grow. We’ve indicated how many of each to plant in a 10-by-15-foot (3-by-4.5-m) bed. However, choose vegetables you and your family enjoy. There’s no point growing peas if no one will eat them. Be sure to harvest regularly to keep plants producing more.
BUSH beans
Tender and flavourful, bush beans come in purple, yellow, shades of green, and speckled.
Grow from: Seeds, sown once the soil warms up, usually late May through early June.
How many: Two rows set two feet (60 cm) apart; sow two to three inches (5 to 8 cm) apart. No sprouts in five days? Seed again!
Key to success: The soil must be warm (minimum 16°C)—beans rot in cold soil.
Varieties to try: ‘Golden Rocky’, ‘Gina’, ‘Jade’, ‘Festina’, ‘Dragon’s Tongue’.
Pole beans
Pole beans make excellent use of vertical space. They also freeze well, so grow lots of them.
Grow from: Seeds, sown once the soil is warm.
How many: Make five small hills of soil spaced about two feet (60 cm) apart. Create shallow craters on top and plant six to 10 seeds two inches (5 cm) apart in each crater.
Keys to success: Give them something to climb, such as stakes, netting or bamboo teepees. Pick before seeds swell.
Varieties to try: ‘Emerite’, ‘Fortex’, ‘Blue Lake’, flat Romano types.
Homegrown carrots are so delicious they’re worth the extra effort required. (Photo by Pixabay)
Carrots
Homegrown carrots are so delicious they’re worth the extra effort required.
Grow from: Seeds, sown when the soil has warmed slightly.
How many: Three rows, about 11 feet (3.3 m) long. The seeds are tiny, so try to be patient enough to plant them one inch (2.5 cm) apart.
Keys to success: Carrots need deep, friable soil to grow unhampered. If the soil is dense and heavy, plant dwarf or “ball” varieties. When the plants are two inches (5 cm) tall, thin them by pulling out alternate seedlings. Do this regularly until carrots are three to four inches (8 to 10 cm) apart, so they have room to mature.
Varieties to try: ’Bolero‘,‘Parmex’ (ball type).
Kale
A nutritional powerhouse, kale is super easy to grow and, because it’s frost tolerant, it can be planted in early spring or fall. When kissed by frost, kale gets sweeter and loses its cabbagy taste.
Grow from: Seed or purchased seedlings any time from early spring to fall. Kale also self-seeds.
How many: Six to eight plants spaced at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart.
Key to success: The more fertile your soil, the bigger and lusher kale grows.
Varieties to try: ‘Russian Red’, ‘RedBor F1’, Scottish types.
Snap peas
Also called mange tout (the pod is edible), snap peas are delicious stir-fried or eaten straight from the garden.
Grow from: Inoculated seeds (see “Inoculant info”), when soil thaws—early spring.
How many: One row, about 11 feet (3.3 m) long.
Keys to success: Give them something to climb on, such as netting, and pick when they start to swell. If the peas in the pods mature and get too big, treat them as shelling peas or save them to use as seed next year. After all the peas are done (mid- to late summer), you can fill the space with chard, lettuce, spinach or any other leafy green.
Variety to try: ‘Super Sugar Snap’.
Start tomato seedlings indoors and keep plants consistently well watered. (Photo by Joanne Young)
Tomatoes
Most tomatoes are “indeterminate,” that is, they grow every which way and bear fruit over a long period. “Determinate” tomatoes are generally bushier and don’t need pruning.
Grow from: Seeds, started early indoors, or purchased seedlings. Set seedlings out around Victoria Day weekend in May or when soil is warm.
How many: Five plants, with at least two feet (60 cm) of space around each.
Keys to success: Keep plants consistently well watered. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking and regular pruning back to one or two main stems to get lots of fruit. (Youtube.com has lots of helpful how-to videos on training tomatoes.) Determinate varieties generally don’t need pruning or staking, but may need a cage for support. If your summers are cool, stick with types that mature in less than 70 days for a better chance of ripening.
Varieties to try: ‘Sungold’, ‘Green Grape’, ‘Black Cherry’, ‘Early Girl’.
Zucchini
Zucchini grow quickly, especially when you go away for the weekend. These big plants take up a good chunk of space but produce lots. Don’t fret over powdery mildew on the leaves in fall; it’s normal.
Grow from: Seeds, started indoors, or purchased seedlings; set them out when the soil has warmed.
How many: Two plants, set at least three feet (90 cm) apart.
Keys to success: Keep soil moist. Harvest fruit when small—six to seven inches (15 to 18 cm)—and use a knife; don’t twist them off.
Varieties to try: ‘Ronde de Nice’, ‘8 Ball’, ‘Butterstick’.
TIP ≥ Inoculant info
An inoculant is a powder containing bacteria that encourages microbial activity in the soil. It prompts legumes (peas and beans) to germinate, grow and produce increased yields. To use, put the prescribed amount of inoculant in a jar along with moisten seeds and shake to coat. Save leftover powder for later sowings.
Succession planting and crop rotation
You’ll often hear vegetable gardeners talk about “succession planting” (sometimes called “successive planting”) and “crop rotation.” The first term concerns extending the yield or harvest; the second deals with keeping the vegetable plants hale and hearty.
Succession planting is a way to maximize your growing space by harvesting one crop, then immediately planting another in its spot. For instance, early greens can be replaced by carrots, which in turn can be replaced by Swiss chard — three different crops in one season. Another method to get more from your plot is to stagger the seeding of the same vegetable over a period of several weeks — planting a row of bush beans every 10 days until midsummer, for example. It takes a bit of juggling (gauging maturity times, spacing, and so on), but it’s well worth the effort.
Crop rotation means growing a vegetable in a different section of the veggie plot the following year, which can be difficult to achieve in a small area. For example, next year plant the carrots where your tomatoes are growing this year, and plant the zucchini where the pole beans are. Plants deplete the soil of different nutrients, and rotation also avoids the buildup of soil-borne diseases in one area.
Dish up a lasagna garden
The best site for your new vegetable plot may be where you have lawn growing. It’s not necessary to remove the turf before starting: you can quickly convert it to productive space using the “lasagna garden” method.
Lasagna means “layer” in Italian, and this style of garden uses layering to make a near-instant planting bed over a lawn or ground that’s difficult to work. There’s one caveat: planting root crops such as carrots, potatoes and beets is not recommended for the first year.
1. Place wet newspapers, six layers deep, over the area where your vegetable garden will be sited.
2. Add alternate layers of carbon- and nitrogen-rich organic materials (listed below) to a depth of about eight inches (20 cm), watering each layer as you go. It will take at least six layers (it’s surprising how much material you need for an inch/2.5-cm-thick layer).
3. Top with six inches (15 cm) of good garden soil.
4. Plant right away, using either seeds or seedlings.
Carbon materials (often dry or brown):
Dried leaves, hay, shredded newspaper, peat moss
Nitrogen materials (wet and sometimes green):
Compost, seaweed (lightly hose it off to get rid of salt), fresh leaves, grass clippings, kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags, well-rotted horse, cow, sheep or chicken manure (use manures on the bottom layers).
Barbecues, salads and impromptu snacking are among the many joys of summer — and what’s better than grabbing what you need from your very own garden? But in the hot, hazy heat of July and August, do we really want to work hard at it? I think not. Given the choice of choosing something tough to grow or super simple, I’ll recommend the lazier route every time. Here are some powerhouse producers that will provide you with easy, yet exquisite, edible garden fare all summer long.
‘Romanesco’ zucchini (Photos by Carol Pope)
‘Romanesco’ zucchini
I’ve grown a lot of summer squash in my time and love them all, but I honestly can’t remember one that produces more prolifically that ‘Romanesco’. Not only is the harvest truly thrilling, the fruit is pretty on the plate. Sliced for a stir-fry or salad, it takes on groovy flower shapes. When grilled in long strips, the striped, ridged skin looks spectacular, particularly when an edible flower still clings to the end of a slice
While these zucchini grow so fast that it can seem difficult to stay on top of the situation, it’s best to pick them when they’re just six or seven inches (15 to 18 cm) long. This ensures your plants keep producing (prodigiously) and that these treats are at their tastiest and most tender.
Scarlet runner beans
Scarlet runner beans
Truly a magic beanstalk, scarlet runner beans are worthy of fairytale status. In my garden, these gorgeous vines twine up eight-foot (2.5-m) stakes placed teepee-style in groups of three, twisting around and around, then bursting into brilliant scarlet blooms.
Placed at the end of each of my raised beds, the bean teepees add architectural interest, and also act as a beacon to hummingbirds and bees who are in constant attendance of the bright-red blooms all through July and August and into September.
We enjoy the whole pods picked young and lightly steamed or stir-fried — like many generous vegetables, it’s good to remember that the more you pick the more you get. The yummy edible flowers are also good for salads or stir-fries.
It’s worth letting some of the pods mature so that you can pop out the pretty purple and black beans to dry for winter soups. When drying beans, hang onto the biggest of the bunch to plant for next year’s crop.
While these beans are easy to grow, there’s one important tip I would rather you not learn the hard way. Whether you start them in pots, as I tend to do, or in the ground, give seedlings some protection from the birds that love the beans as much as we do — they won’t hesitate to peck them out of the ground and leave you wondering what happened. I usually cover the soil with an upside-down plastic mesh tray (such as the type you bring home from nurseries when you buy bedding plants), held down by a small boulder, until the first set of leaves have developed. At that point, it’s safe to uncover your seedlings and let them reach for the sky.
Heritage cherry tomatoes
Heritage cherry tomatoes
If your season seems too short to get a good harvest of burly Beefeaters, or you simply can’t wait to sink your teeth into a just-plucked tomato tepid from the sun, stay small when choosing your tomato varieties. ‘Black Cherry’, ‘Green Grape’, yellow ‘Coyote’, ‘Chadwick Cherry’, ‘Hawaiian Currant’ and ‘Yellow Pear’, along with other heirloom small-size gems, will keep you eating the delicate fruits every day. And while they do need a bit of a support to grow up, these fast and furious little tomatoes require less fuss and structure than heavier varieties.
Enjoy these gorgeous gourmet treats right off the plant, halve them for salads, throw them on to the barbecue or make a super-fast alfresco pasta dish.
Portuguese kale
Heat-hardy kale
As co-author of The Book of Kale & Friends:14 Easy-to-Grow Superfoods, I just can’t help myself, and include it here. Of course, this begs the question of what kale best withstands summer’s heat. While much of my kale breezes through July and August without a problem, particularly if shielded from the worst of the sun with shade cloth, kale is not a big lover of high temperatures, and having a heat-tolerant type in the garden is a good idea. Portuguese kale, a collard-like kale staple of Portugal, is mild and sweet and a stalwart through summer’s hot spells. It’s also cold hardy, so if you don’t already have this fabulous kale in your garden, start some now to enjoy it fall through to next spring.
Fairyherbs Wild Colour basil
The right basil
When growing basil outdoors, it’s important to choose both the right plant and the right place. Outdoors in pots, I’m growing Fairyherbs Wild Color basil and so far it seems to be holding its own, despite occasional attacks from hungry slugs and other critters.
My outdoor-grown, large-leaved sweet basil, on the other hand, is usually so riddled with holes that it doesn’t seem worth harvesting. Now, we mostly grow this delicate herb in the greenhouse or inside the house under grow lights. In fact, it’s surprisingly easy to grow basil right through the year no matter where you live — simply set up some indoor grow lights and watch it go. Inside or out, pinch the tops off for bushier plants.
Perennial herbs
I know I’ve said this before, but I can’t help but repeat myself: Wherever you have room for an edible groundcover, be sure to tuck in some thyme, oregano, sage and marjoram. Not only are these herbs bee-supportive and beautiful in the garden, they’re a delectable and healthy addition to any summer meal.
About Carol Pope
Carol Pope is co-author with Sharon Hanna of the newly released The Book of Kale & Friends: 14 Easy-to-Grow Superfoods, published by Douglas & McIntyre. She has 25 years of experience in editing, garden writing and organic gardening. As editor of GardenWise magazine for more than a decade, and editor of gardenwiseonline.ca, Carol focused on organic gardening in British Columbia. She was contributing editor to several gardening bestsellers and is garden series editor of more than 15 books and guides on organic gardening.